We’ve had two other boats on this dock. It easily feels like home already. Rediviva now has shore power hook up for the first time!
A smaller crew this time than her maiden voyage to the guest dock. It’s starting to feel more real now that she’s in a REAL slip. Almost like she’s a real boat! She just needs sails.
Our first project in the water was removing her temporary interior. We were happy with it as it served its purpose but it’s time to get serious.
If she can’t have sails yet then we’re going to have to get her mobile under her own power another way. Oh yeah, she’s had this engine sitting in her for nearly 3 years. We got all the external gear for the motor complete before launching but it’s not plugged in. So the plan is to suit her up with a universal joint. This allows us to put the engine anywhere in the boat and skip the whole precision alignment thing.
Since we can move it anywhere this behemoth is going forward and becoming apart of the galley counter and the main settee.
Today was a lot of talking. We concluded to mock up the interior once more to make sure it’s where we like things. We moved the motor forward which took a little swearing and wine. Now with the motor more or less where we think we want it we can see what we have to work with.
Don’t quote us on this but we are thinking long companion way stairs with the head to starboard and the galley to port. The engine will be under the counter that’s parallel to beam of the boat, width wise. In front of the galley will be a wrap around seating salon area where the other half of the engine will be under one of the arms. This whole “box” that covers the engine making the galley counter and settee will be removable. Leaving the engine in the middle of the boat (slightly to port) with free open access for maintenance. The rest of the interior is a little up in the air so we’ll come back to that at a later date.
Our old neighbor and dear friend, Tyler, came to say hi and hash out some of the details with us. It’s always nice to have multiple opinions. Hopefully we won’t be doing the interior twice…or three times….
….like the cabin
Just for representation, the universal joint will connect the prop shaft to the motor. Commonly, the prop shaft goes straight to the back of the engine which requires a very exact alignment. The U-joint will help make this connection in a more relaxed way. Rolf will be helping us create this joint. It is something he’s done plenty of times before…on race cars.. boats are similar enough right..? This will be a fun new learning experience for all involved but we’re looking forward to trying something new and inventive. More to come as things unfold!
Salt & Tar 
She sits much higher in the water than I would have expected. I know there is probably a 1/2 ton of interior , fuel, and water and such, but still. One concern. If you put windows in the cabin, the majority of the view will be the inside of the bulwarks? Skylights in the top and a second story of cabin with windows in the side and a dodger? Don’t ask me, I make outboard raceboats from composite materials. I envy your drive, your youth and skills. press on regardless.
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Hey Tim,
Sorry for my delayed reply. The boat is designed to be internally ballasted as well so we load her up and fill her tanks then add extra ballast to her bilge to trim and weigh her down. I can’t wait till we get ports on the boat! She’s a bit cave like. Yes, the ports on the cabin will mainly see the bulwarks but this will still provide much welcomed light. We have several deck prisms which are really cool. Probably two in the fore deck and a few in the cabin roof.
R
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Garrett and Ruth,
Seeing Rediviva in the water, after all the work,sweat,pain,cold,snow,generator fires, planning waiting,hoping and some more work,
that stem,that shear, awesome!
I know there is a lot more work to do but this is an amazing accomplishment! Keep sharing progress!
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Ah, thanks Mike for your comment. Garrett and I definitely feel energized by her launch to keep going! Can’t wait to see what we decide on for final interior and when we get those masts up, oh boy!
R
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Wow. is very nice looking with the paint all done. Looks good on the water. Universal or CV joint? I think the CV would be quieter, but the universal may be stronger.
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Hey Len, we are going with a universal joint. Garrett, as I type, is on the phone with a driveline company that is going to set us up real nice. We decided to just let professionals make the assembly so we can do other things. Turns out it’s not going to be much more expensive than if we found all the parts ourselves AND this way we know it’s right.
I can’t wait to paint her name on the bow then her hull will truly be complete 🙂 Thank you!
~Ruthie
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Oh my, offset the motor… That will be interesting.
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If you use “U” type universal joints, the angles on the joints need to be equal and opposite or the shaft rpm will vary as it revolves. Causes vibration. You could avoid this by using CV joints instead of the universal type. With either universal or CV you will need a thrust bearing at the shaft (aft of the U joints) to take the propeller thrust. A thrust bearing is built into the engine’s reverse gear, but with the universal or CV joints, the joints will deflect and the thrust won’t get to the bearing on the gear. For the thrust bearing load you could figure about 30 pounds of propeller thrust per engine Horsepower. A thrust bearing at the front end of the propeller shaft should be easy to fit, along with its structural support.
Regards, Greg Lee
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Hey Greg, thanks for your input. Garrett’s had his head “in the books” researching. We’ve decided to go with a driveline company to make the whole set up. As things are currently unfolding, I’ll have the blog update about it shortly 🙂 I’m still not entirely sure what all this stuff means so I think I’ll get Garrett to write about it haha
R
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Hi a drive shaft U-joint is not normally made to handle the end/pull thrust of the propeller. Aquadrive make a unit. http://www.aquadrive.net/how-it-works.html
But I thought a cheaper option would be a modified version of a large trailer bearing hub since it’s only just a pair of TIMKEN tapered bearings. I would add a grease fitting to replace the grease easy. Just a thought , cheers Warren
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Hi , I was looking up taper thrust bearing and McMaster Carr has better options too, like
https://www.mcmaster.com/#1498N11 Or. https://www.mcmaster.com/#1495N11
Cheers warren
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Hi, having said all that above, a direct drive is really not that hard to do and will be the cheapest option. I was doing it at age 22 in a fiberglass powerboat yard , The westerbeke web site has lots of information on installation and advise The engine mounts are set up for adjustment. It will take less work than setting up u-joints and if your shaft is too short you can make it in 2 pieces with a rigid shaft coupling. Look at a recent post by ‘trying not to sink’ a huge engine with an external coupling! Cheers Warren.
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